Fertilize Your Trees for Outstanding Results

In the forest, trees do not require fertilization because they are already living in a natural environment. The leaves, branches, and wildlife all decompose on the forest floor, providing a natural means of fertilization. Decomposed organic matter like these are rich in nutrients, and give trees a continuous source of food and nutrition. In contrast, the trees in urban settings, like commercial or residential properties, usually do require manual intervention for adequate nutrition because municipal
areas are foreign environments for trees.

Nutrients in Soil

Trees need a certain amount of nutrients, water, and sunlight to thrive. But in residential and commercial properties, the amount of nutrients in the soil are generally less than those found in natural environments, like forests. This could be a result of many circumstances, including sub-grade work, ground leveling construction, and lack of natural decomposition. For this reason, trees need fertilization to make up for the lack of natural decomposition in the soil. Fertilizer prevents and reverses nutrient deficiencies in soil in order to support healthy, thriving trees. This will make trees look beautiful and live much longer.

Also, tree roots are always in constant competition with grass roots for nutrients and water. Fertilizer relieves the stress put on a tree to recover the needed nutrients to live. To protect your landscaping trees from stress and nutrient deficiencies, it is important to fertilize them on a seasonal basis. Tree care specialists recommend fertilizing your trees before any signs of malnutrition. The frequency in which you should fertilize trees depends on a variety of factors, including the tree’s age, location, condition, species, surrounding climate, and more. Talk to your local tree care technician about the right time to fertilize your trees.

Be sure to use the right fertilizer, and not a fertilizer for lawns or grass. You must use a quick and slow release deep liquid root fertilizer to properly fertilize tree roots. Deep liquid root fertilizers generally contain phosphorous, nitrogen, and potassium, iron, magnesium, and a variety of micro-elements. This combination of minerals and nutrients gives trees the strength to bloom, thrive, and live long lives.

Fishers Tree Care

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How to Select the Right Firewood for Your Home

Sure, you can get all bundled up head to toe, trek out to the woods with chain saw in hand, and chop up several pounds of free wood for the winter. But all this effort really isn’t necessary when you can simply drive to any local store and purchase affordable seasoned firewood in bulk. The convenience of buying seasoned firewood and ready to go is worth the money spent since there’s no physical effort required! And to make matters more interesting, there are several different types of firewood to choose from, all with separate qualities and characteristics. The firewood you choose depends on your style and personal preferences. Continue reading to learn about some popular firewood selections, and what they have to offer your home this winter season!

Types of Firewood

For the most part, all firewood is pretty much the same, but there are notable traits that make them slightly different from one another. For example, different types of woods burn differently, at different temperatures, and for different amount of times. They also make a different amount of popping and cracking sounds while burning. Firewood can also differ in smells and aromas, and of course, price. Here are some popular choices to consider when shopping around for wintertime firewood:

Oak – Although generally the most expensive, oak firewood is very dense and burns very hot. Being that it is easy to light and has a mild but pleasant aroma, many people choose oak firewood for indoor fireplaces.

Pecan – Pecan firewood also burns very hot, but is a little trickier to light. Being that it is one of the densest nut variety of woods, it requires routine kindling and crackles less than harder woods. However, this may be exactly what you are looking for in a firewood, especially because it has a lovely gentle scent. It is moderately pricey, usually costing a bit less than oak firewood.

Mixed Hardwoods – Mixed hardwoods include woods like Ash, Elm, Sycamore, and even Hackberry. They are the least expensive firewood option, and crackles the most out of all other selections of firewood. It is easy to light and burns hot too! This type of firewood is perfect for outdoor bonfires and campfires.

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Winter Tree Damages and Diseases

There are several factors that influence the degree or likelihood of damage and disease to trees in the winter. These include variables like tree species, location, dormancy, temperatures, precipitation, and more. Many assume that cold temperatures will kill a tree, but there are more serious threats in the winter than that. In fact, it’s not cold weather that harms a tree, but rather extreme fluctuations in temperatures. A tree must acclimate slowly to freezing cold temperatures in order to survive them once they arrive; and they can only do so if the temperatures gradually decrease as the fall ends and winter begins. Sudden or extreme changes in climate can de-acclimate trees, leaving them vulnerable to rapid freeze and more. You can learn more about that, as well as, other common tree damages and diseases that occur during the winter season, when you continue reading.

Frost Cracks

Frost cracks, also referred to as radial shakes, affect a tree’s bark and trunk in the wintertime. These are long, vertical cracks, both deep and shallow, that may appear in the trunk of a vulnerable tree after temperatures drop below 15 degrees Fahrenheit. This is generally caused by sudden or extreme drops in temperature, and most commonly occurs on the South or Southwest side of trees. Once they appear, they usually come back every winter season. Tree that are more vulnerable to frost cracks include Red Maples, Walnut trees, Willow trees, and Oak trees.

Sunscald

Since trees experience the most temperature fluctuations on their South and Southwest side, they are also susceptible to a condition called sunscald. It appears as an elongated canker growth, and generally tends to affect thin-barked trees like Willows, White Pines, Beeches, and Maples. The cause is sudden over-exposure to direct sun. Additional signs of sunscald include lack of foliage, stem dieback, and stunted growth.

Winterburn

Similar to sunscald, winterburn is another seasonal condition that can greatly injure trees. But rather than mostly affecting the tree’s bark, it affects the foliage. Winterburn will cause leaves to appear burnt at the tips, curl up, and brown. It is common to see winterburn on trees like evergreens, Hemlocks, and pines, but also on Rhododendrons and Boxwoods. Loss of water through leaf transpiration is a common cause of winterburn.

Branch and Limb Breakages

Frozen ice and snow accumulation can cause tree branches to bend, snap, break, splinter, and fall. For this reason, it is important to make sure there is nothing kept beneath any tree covered in an excessive amount of heavy snow or ice. Broken limbs and branches are a common sight during winters with high precipitation. Use a broom to lightly release heavy snow accumulation from trees on your property to reduce the chances of limbs breaking.

Salt Damage

Salt is a necessity in many communities in terms of snow/ice removal and control. But it comes with its drawbacks. Not only does salt leave unsightly stains and marks on fabric like car mats and pant legs, and it also causes tree damage if improperly managed. Salt can linger in the soil and cause root damage, while aerial deposits damage the tree’s branches and limbs. But the damage from salt is not evident until spring and summer. Signs and symptoms include dead turf areas, branch dieback, leaf discoloration, and leaf scorch.

Keep Your Eye Out For Our Next Month’s Blog to Learn How to Reduce Winter Tree Damages Like These!

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Key Factors that Help Determine the Cost of Tree Removal

There are several elements that can influence the cost of removing trees on residential and commercial properties. To understand the reasons behind this commonly-used price chart, one must first recognize the reasons tree removal can cost more in certain circumstances; while costing less in others. Continue reading to get familiar with the various aspects of tree removal that can affect the final estimate of a tree service job, entirely.

Size, Quantity, and Location

The most influential factors that will decide the cost of tree service is size, location, and quantity. For obvious reasons, the larger the tree, the more labor it will require to take down. Because labor equals time and money, this increases the final bill for tree service. On top of tree size, the location is a key player in the final billing process. For example, if a tree is located near cables, wires, and other dangerous obstacles, it could be risky and time-consuming to accomplish. This will certainly increase the cost of tree removal. Other location factors include proximity to streets, roads, and adjacent houses. If tree removal or service requires work in a neighbor’s yard, or promises impact, this could add to the final cost as well.

Tree Health

The stability of a tree can be assessed by determining the status of health; which in turn determines the price of the service. Trees that are dying, diseased, or already dead can cost more to remove; mainly due to the degree of risk and difficulty of the project. Healthy trees are much easier and safer to remove or cut down, resulting in a slightly smaller invoice.

Additional Tree Services

If a property or tree project requires extra tree services, it will increase the final cost. Additional services such as stump removal, stump grinding, tree fertilization, trimming, and other specialized tasks cost extra due to the increased labor and use of equipment. Larger staffs and supplementary tree removal equipment are needed to facilitate these extra services for residential and commercial properties.

Fortunately, there are professional tree care companies that offer seasonal specials, discounts, and free estimates. It is important to get complimentary estimates for tree service jobs in order to hunt down the best price. Be sure to use a fully licensed and experienced company that retains the proper equipment and staffs to carry out professional tree service assignments. This is the only way to guarantee trusted tree work.

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How to Dig Up a Mature Pine Tree

It’s quite easy to remove a young evergreen, but mature trees require a lot more work. Pine trees and other evergreens are beautiful and ornamental assets to residential landscapes. They provide their beauty and benefits all year long, in all regions of the country. In some cases however, they need to be removed. Most often, pine trees need to be removed if they are dead, dying, or need to be transplanted to another location. Either way, if you choose to dig up your pine tree on your own, you will need to review some guidelines to the process. Continue reading to learn how to dig up a pine tree and tips for tree removal.

Evergreen Tree Removal

In order to protect a tree during transplanting, you must dig it up carefully and at the right moment. The guidelines below is a method for safely removing pine trees for transplanting purposes. You may also, however, refer to these same guidelines to remove a dead or dying pine tree as well. It is important to know that pine tree transplanting is a lot of work, and requires some pre-planning and preparation. It is strongly encouraged to have another capable person there to help. This is especially important for large trees. If you are not in good physical health, it is not a good idea to remove a pine tree on your own since it requires physical effort. Instead, call a local tree service company for safe and professional tree removal you can afford. For those who wish to remove a moderate size or mature pine tree, here’s how to get started:

1. Always remove pine trees while they are still dormant. This is in the late winter months, between February and April.

2. Do not attempt to remove a pine tree with a branch spread of more than four feet wide. Any larger, and you will need heavy equipment to manage the weight and height of the tree.

3. The night before digging up the pine tree, water it thoroughly around the base. This will keep it well-hydrated enough to prevent distress during the transplant process. Allow a hose to flow for 10 or 15 minutes around the base of the tree for a deep watering. Soil should be wet as deep as 5 inches.

4. Measure and mark a radial line around the base of the tree to use as a guide for digging up the tree’s root ball. Increase the radius by 2 inches for every 12 inches of branch spread.

18 inch Branch Spread = 1 Foot Radius
24 inch Branch Spread = 14 inch Radius
36 inch Branch Spread = 16 inch Radius

5. Use the tip of a sharp shovel to pierce the perimeter of your marked radial line to begin the dig. Continue to etch out this perimeter until you reach 9 inches deep for an 18 inch radius.

11 inches Deep = 2 Foot Radius
13 inch Deep = 3 Foot Radius
14 inch Deep = 4 Foot Radius

6. At a 45 degree angle, dig down below the root ball. Pull back on the shovel handle to help pry roots from the soil. It is safe to cut tough, vertical roots that won’t break free. Use your shovel edge or tree pruning shears.

7. At this point, you will need assistance lifting the tree from the ground. Do this by holding onto the base of the tree trunk, and then working your hands down under the root ball, using your legs to lift it out of the ground.

8. After the tree is out of the ground, wrap the root ball in wet burlap. This keeps the roots hydrated and prevents them from overheating. Use jute twine to secure the burlap while you transport your pine tree.

9. Fill the empty hole with leaves or soil.

It is highly important to call a licensed arborist for help with large-tree transplanting and removal. They retain the proper tools, training, and equipment to safely and efficiently remove trees. If you have never dug up a tree before, and it is a tree you wish to preserve, it is highly recommended to trust a professional to ensure accuracy and safety.

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Beware of Bacterial Leaf Scorch

When trees are in full bloom, the condition of newly sprouted leaves can give clues regarding the overall health of a tree. Leaves and branches are always an effective indicator of a healthy tree or a distressed tree. Curling edges and discoloration are two of the most common signs of tree problems. One tree disease that causes both of these conditions is called bacterial leaf scorch. If your leaves are still green in the center, but browning at the edges, it could be leaf scorch. The same goes for a yellow border around the edges of the leaves.

Causes of Bacterial Leaf Scorch

The primary cause of bacterial leaf scorch is an insect called a leaf hopper. Leaf hoppers do not mean any harm, but their appetites cause injury to trees. They retain penetrating mouth extremities that allows them to suck all the water and nutrients from the tree leaves. Without sufficient water and nutrients, trees cannot survive, and the first thing to show evidence of this is the leaves.

The other problem is that leaf hoppers transmit the bacterial leaf scorch from one tree to the next. So as soon as a leaf hopper comes into contact with the bacteria (Xylella fastidiosa) that causes leaf scorch, it is equipped to transmit the bacteria to the next tree is dines from.

The bacteria attacks the tree’s xylem, which is the essential water transporting system of a tree. So if a tree is not treated within a short amount of time, it can die. Although there is no “cure” for bacterial leaf scorch, it can be contained with systematic treatments of bactericides. It may require several treatments, but after a while the tree can be sustained with a simple annual application. This is why it is important to catch it as early as possible. Call your local tree guys for an inspection.

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Tree Species that Can Provide Medicinal Remedies

There are thousands of trees found all over the world, and many of them retain homeopathic benefits for humans. Continents like Europe, India, and North America are abundant with prominent flora that has the herbal power to heal, treat, and cure numerous ailments. Their twigs, roots, and bark can be harvested in fall and winter for several medicinal purposes. Continue reading to learn about special trees that provide medicinal therapies for many different ailments and medical conditions.

Eucalyptus Tree

The Eucalyptus tree is a prominent species found in India and surrounding countries. It is a tall tree, capable of exceeding heights of 300 feet or more. Its leaves provide an oil that retains medicinal qualities used to purify blood and lower high blood sugar, as well as, treat other ailments like asthma, bronchitis, fungal infections, cardiac issues, and more.

Ash Tree

Both the leaves and the twig tips of ash trees can be brewed into a tea to relieve symptoms of rheumatism, as well as, jaundice and gout.

Alder Tree

The alder tree can be used as an astringent to wash and heal deep wounds and reduce bleeding. Its bark can be brewed into a tea to treat tonsillitis, fevers, and even hemorrhoids.

Apple Tree

Apples are a delicious and healthy fruit that we cook, bake, and consume in infinite ways. But there is more to apple trees than just food. The bark of an apple tree has been used to treat ailments like diarrhea and fevers. As for apples, stewing them can be used for laxative purposes, while baking them can soothe a sore throat. Drinking apple cider can clean the bowels and intestines of bacteria and other harmful microbes.

Birch Tree

Brewing the leaves of a birch tree into a tea and drinking it can relieve mouth sores, bladder and kidney infections, and even gout. A person can even bathe in the bark of a birch tree to relieve skin irritations like eczema, rashes, and psoriasis. The sap of a birch tree contains betulinic acid which can be used to fight cancer and tumors.

Elm Tree

Elm tree bark ointment and compresses have been used since earlier times to treat gunshot wounds, inflammation, and fevers. The bark of an elm tree brews a tea that is very high in calcium. When consumed, it can help expedite the healing of orthopedic injuries and strengthen weak bones. The tea can also soothe sore throats, relieve urinary and bowel discomfort, and impede diarrhea.

Upper Respiratory Infections

There are several tree species that retain medicinal benefits that treat upper respiratory issues, like the common cold, flu, sore throat, sore muscles, and more. For example, the bark of a maple tree can be brewed into a tea to treat certain symptoms of the common cold and bronchitis. Also, the elder tree bark tea can heal headaches, congestion, and fevers. The bark of cedar trees can be brewed into a tea for chest colds, flus, fevers, and rheumatism.

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Protect Your Trees From Sunscald This Summer!

Just like humans, trees and plants can get a sunburn during the summer time too! For this reason, it is important to protect your landscaping trees in order to promote healthiness and longevity. Sunscald is a damaging effect on flora that occurs as a result of massive over-exposure to sun or strong sunlight. It generally affects the more delicate and vulnerable areas of a plant or tree, like fruit or leaves.

The biggest concern in terms of sunscald is disease. When a plant or tree is badly sun-scalded, it can allow diseases to enter. This can lead to a very sick or dead tree. Young or newly-planted trees are more at risk to sunscald. Continue reading to learn how trees and plants get sunburnt, and how to protect them from this type of natural hazard.

Signs of Sunscald on Trees

When humans get a sunburn, their outer layer of skin is affected or damaged; and this damage is usually visible by peeling, discoloration, swelling, and more, depending on the severity of the burn. This is exactly the same for trees and plants. The outer layer of bark on a tree, or the outer layer of skin on a plant, are the areas most damaged by sunscald. Other areas of flora can be damaged by sunscald as well, including leaves, foliage, stems, tree trunks, and more.

Signs of Sunscald Affects:

• Rotted Fruit
• Unattractive or Droopy Flowers
• Lesions
• Peeling Bark
• Discoloration
• Sickly-Looking Plants
• Damaged Spots
• White, Brown, or Withered Leaves
• Diminished Crops
• And More

The best way to treat tree sunscald is to do your best to prevent it from happening in the first place. Routine tree care and preventative maintenance are crucial for protecting beloved and valuable landscaping trees from all natural wear, tear, and danger. Once a tree or plant is sunburnt, there is no way to fix it. Preventative maintenance and care involves covering growing fruits and crops with cheesecloth during the afternoon, using proper fertilizers, proper watering, accurate pruning and branch trimming, wrapping young tree trunks with tree wrap strips in the fall, and placing plants and trees in the proper areas of a landscape. Consult a professional tree contractor for advice when needed.

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Manual Stump Removal Versus Stump Grinding

The method and degree of difficulty for removing a stump largely depends on its size and age. An older tree stump is likely rotted or decayed, making it easier to remove; while a fresh stump is solid and requires more labor and supplies to remove. There are several methods to stump removal, but they all boil down to two categories, manual versus grinding. Continue reading to learn the manual methods of stump removal and stump grinding, as well as, the methods that involve both.

Manual Tree Stump Removal

Generally, older and smaller trees, stumps, and shrubs are easier to remove, so a manual approach to doing so is your best option in most cases. There are a few different approaches to manual stump removal. One approach is to drill a few large, deep holes into the stump from the top, and then fill those holes with either a natural compound like cow manure that has a high nitrogen content, or a store-bought stump remover solution the promotes tree decay in the same way. From there, all you do is wait for the tree trunk to rot away and become one with the Earth again. Although easy, keep in mind this is the slowest method to stump removal.

Another method of manual stump removal is probably the most attempted method, as well as, the most dangerous and destructive. It is the old fashion version of tree stump removal, using a rope, and a vehicle. You get the picture. This can cause major damage to a vehicle, the driver, the landscape, and the surrounding environment. This is a popular method for the DIY tree stump remover, but not a recommended one. Do not try this under any circumstances, ever!

Stump Grinding

For larger or fresher tree stumps, a more invasion and aggressive method of removal is needed. This typically involves using machinery like chainsaws, chip grinders, lateral grinding machines, and more. Stump grinding is the fastest method for removing tree trunks. For those who prefer the DIY route, you can rent or purchase a stump grinding machine, but be sure to do ample research to learn how to safely handle such equipment. The best option for stump grinding is to hire a professional tree company who already retains the proper tools, equipment, resources, licensing, and training to remove tree stumps in a time frame that’s convenient for you.

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Tree Planting Tips

When it comes to planting trees, survival is never a guarantee. External and internal conditions can make even the most perfectly planted trees might not work out in the end. So with this in mind, don’t feel let down if your newly planted tree doesn’t make it. Instead, check out these tips on planting trees to review your methods and possibly improve them for the next time.

Fishers Tree Services 317-537-9770
Fishers Tree Services 317-537-9770

Planting a Tree

The first place to start is your location. Think about where you are planting the tree, and if the soil is in good condition. Be sure to plant trees on level surfaces and far from construction sites. As for the hole size, dig a hole in the ground that is at least five times larger than the tree’s root ball. This will ensure there is plenty of space for the roots to breathe and grow. Also, be sure to not dig too deep. A common reason newly-planted flora fails is a result of planting them too deep into the ground. The hole only needs to be as deep as the height of the root ball.

Before placing the tree in the hole, be sure all nylon and twine are removed, and if the tree is balled, removal all the burlap as well. At this point, many people want to use fertilizers or soil enhancers to better ensure to proper growth of their tree, but this isn’t really necessary. Fertilizing trees can be very effective depending on the circumstances, time of year, type of tree, and much more. Talk to a local tree care professional for advice about fertilizing newly-planted trees.

Instead of using fertilizer, or if you forgo the option of using fertilizer, simply reuse the soil dug from the hole. Fill in the hole and pat gently around the base of the tree trunk. Do not fill the soil higher than a quarter of an inch above the root ball. Instead, top off the base of the tree with a few inches of good-quality mulch or wood chips.

Now you are ready to water the entire tree and the soil around it. You can use stakes at this point if it’s necessary.

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