Common Types of Coniferous Trees

Conifers are widely-diverse and attractive evergreen trees (pines trees) that have immense ecological importance on Earth. They are woody plants with secondary growth, producing an eclectic variety of yields like seeds, flowers, fruit, and more. The softwood obtained from them is of huge economic value, giving us paper, timber, and even plastic. About 45% of the world’s lumber comes from evergreens. Needless to say, they are highly-beneficial pine trees with even more interesting facts to learn about them.

An Ancient Tree

The word “confiner” comes from the Latin, “conus”, meaning “cone”, and “ferre”, meaning “to bear.” These words refer to the pine cones that conifer trees produce in the late summer and early fall. Coniferous fossils have been found that date back as far as 300 million years ago during the Paleozoic period. They are known as one of the most ancient species of tree on the planet. In fact, the tallest, densest, and oldest living trees on Earth are all conifers!

Structure and Foliage

Coniferous trees retain their foliage and stay green all year long. Most have a similar structure: a single straight trunk with side-reaching branches. They have their own built in first-aid kit and pest deterrent as well, known as resin. This resin, or sap, gives evergreen trees their distinct piney scent; but more importantly, the sap protects open wounds against fungal infection, and fends off nuisance pests. Their foliage is made up of needles, rather than leaves you see on deciduous trees (with the exception of Lawless Cypress and other Cupressaceous species). These needles shed once per year, but not before turning a bright orange or yellow first.

Types of Conifer Trees

There are several types of coniferous trees, including Cedars, Redwoods, Hemlocks, Spruces, Firs, and more. They are in the kingdom of Plantae, the Division of Pinophyta (also known as Coniferophyta or Coniferae), the Class Pinopsida, the Order of Cordaitales (or Pinales), and finally, the Family of Pine. Here are some of the most common and well-known conifer trees we treasure so dearly:

  • African Juniper
  • Alaska Cedar
  • Aleppo Pine
  • Alligator Juniper
  • Arborvitae
  • Arborvitae
  • Atlantic White Cedar
  • Atlas Cedar
  • Austrian Pine
  • Bald Cypress
  • Balsam Fir
  • Bhutan Pine
  • Black Pine
  • Black Spruce
  • Blue Spruce
  • Bristlecone Pine
  • Bunge’s Pine
  • Bunya Pine
  • California Foothill Pine
  • California Red Fir
  • Canaan Fir
  • Canada Yew
  • Carolina Hemlock
  • Caucasian Fir
  • Cedar
  • Cedar-Of-Lebanon
  • Chilgoza Pine
  • Chinese Fir
  • Chinese Juniper
  • Cipres De Guaitecas
  • Common Juniper
  • Corkbark Fir
  • Cui Bai
  • Cypress
  • Dawn Redwood
  • Deodar Cedar
  • Douglas Fir
  • Eastern Hemlock
  • Eastern Red Cedar
  • Eastern White Pine
  • Engelmann Spruce
  • English Yew
  • European Larch
  • Fir
  • Florida Nutmeg
  • Florida Yew
  • Foxtail Pine
  • Fraser Fir
  • Giant Sequoia
  • Grand Fir
  • Grecian Fir
  • Hartweg Pine
  • Hemlock
  • Hinoki False Cypress
  • Honduras Pine
  • Incense-Cedar
  • Indian Juniper
  • Italian Cypress
  • Jack Pine
  • Japanese Black Pine
  • Japanese Cedar
  • Japanese Fir
  • Japanese Larch
  • Japanese Red Pine
  • Japanese Yew
  • Jeffrey Pine
  • Juniper Juniperus
  • Khasia Pine
  • Knob Cone Pine
  • Korean Fir
  • Larch
  • Leyland Cypress
  • Limber Pine
  • Loblolly Pine
  • Lodge Pole Pine
  • Longleaf Pine
  • Manchurian Fir
  • Maritime Pine
  • Mason Pine
  • Mexican Cypress/Cedar of Goa
  • Microbiota
  • Monkey Puzzle Tree
  • Monterey Cypress
  • Monterey Pine
  • Montezuma Bald Cypress
  • Moreton Bay Pine
  • Mountain Hemlock
  • Mugo Pine
  • New Caledonia Pine
  • Nikko Fir
  • Norfolk Island Pine
  • Norway Spruce
  • Ocote Pine
  • One Seed Juniper
  • Orchids
  • Oriental Arborvitae
  • Oriental Spruce
  • Pacific Yew
  • Parana Pine
  • Patagonian Cypress
  • Patula Pine
  • Pitch Pine
  • Plum Pine
  • Pond Cypress
  • Ponderosa Pine
  • Port Orford Cedar
  • Red Pine
  • Red Spruce
  • Redwood
  • Rocky Mountain Douglas Fir
  • Rocky Mountain Juniper
  • Sacred Fir
  • Sand Pine
  • Sargent Juniper
  • Scots Pine
  • Serbian Spruce
  • Shortleaf Pine
  • Siberian Larch
  • Silver Fir
  • Single Leaf Pinyon
  • Sitka Spruce
  • Slash Pine
  • Southwestern White Pine
  • Spruce
  • Spruce Pine
  • Subalpine Fir
  • Subalpine Fir
  • Sugar Pine
  • Swiss Stone Pine
  • Table Mountain Pine
  • Tall Lodge Pole Pine
  • Tamarack
  • Torrey Pine
  • Turkish Pine
  • Two Needle Pinyon
  • Utah Juniper
  • Virginia Pine
  • Western Hemlock
  • Western Juniper
  • Western Juniper
  • Western Larch
  • Western Red Cedar
  • Western White Pine
  • White Cypress-Pine
  • White Fir
  • White Fir
  • White Spruce
  • White Bark Pine
  • Yew
  • Yew Plum Pine

Call a professional Fishers Tree Service Company for help managing your conifer trees!

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Why is My Pine Tree Losing its Needles?

Are you worried about your pine trees because they seem to be losing too many needles? If so, you are one among thousands of homeowners with the same concern. The good news is you don’t need to panic! And you don’t need to have your beloved pines chopped down and turned into firewood. Instead, it is helpful to understand common pine tree needle activity so that you can learn to differentiate between a problem and a natural occurrence. Continue reading to learn why your pine trees are losing needles, and what you can do to protect your trees.

Evergreen Trees

Although pine trees and other conifers are called evergreens, they do not necessarily remain green 100 percent of the time. You see, pine trees produce new needles in the spring, but not every spring. Generally, every two to four years a pine tree will begin new needle production. Old needles lose their efficiency in producing nutrients for the tree and get mostly shaded by newer growth, which makes them discolor and turn yellow or brown. So as the tree continues to grow over time, you will see new green needles at the tips of their branches, and older yellow-ish ones farther back into the crown.

Don’t rake! Old pine needles make a great mulch beneath pine trees!

Eventually, pine trees have to shed their old, inefficient needles, which is why they start to drop when a tree appears to be perfectly healthy otherwise. This is not harmful to pine trees at all, and is a normal part of nature. Since they have new growth coming in, shedding old needles every couple of years doesn’t hurt them. On the other hand, you should be concerned if your pine trees are losing needles at the tips of their branch where new growth comes in. This could be a sign that the tree is sick or under distress. Contact a local tree service company for professional diagnostics and treatment. They can also give you advice on how to protect and properly care for your trees.

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How to Dig Up a Mature Pine Tree

It’s quite easy to remove a young evergreen, but mature trees require a lot more work. Pine trees and other evergreens are beautiful and ornamental assets to residential landscapes. They provide their beauty and benefits all year long, in all regions of the country. In some cases however, they need to be removed. Most often, pine trees need to be removed if they are dead, dying, or need to be transplanted to another location. Either way, if you choose to dig up your pine tree on your own, you will need to review some guidelines to the process. Continue reading to learn how to dig up a pine tree and tips for tree removal.

Evergreen Tree Removal

In order to protect a tree during transplanting, you must dig it up carefully and at the right moment. The guidelines below is a method for safely removing pine trees for transplanting purposes. You may also, however, refer to these same guidelines to remove a dead or dying pine tree as well. It is important to know that pine tree transplanting is a lot of work, and requires some pre-planning and preparation. It is strongly encouraged to have another capable person there to help. This is especially important for large trees. If you are not in good physical health, it is not a good idea to remove a pine tree on your own since it requires physical effort. Instead, call a local tree service company for safe and professional tree removal you can afford. For those who wish to remove a moderate size or mature pine tree, here’s how to get started:

1. Always remove pine trees while they are still dormant. This is in the late winter months, between February and April.

2. Do not attempt to remove a pine tree with a branch spread of more than four feet wide. Any larger, and you will need heavy equipment to manage the weight and height of the tree.

3. The night before digging up the pine tree, water it thoroughly around the base. This will keep it well-hydrated enough to prevent distress during the transplant process. Allow a hose to flow for 10 or 15 minutes around the base of the tree for a deep watering. Soil should be wet as deep as 5 inches.

4. Measure and mark a radial line around the base of the tree to use as a guide for digging up the tree’s root ball. Increase the radius by 2 inches for every 12 inches of branch spread.

18 inch Branch Spread = 1 Foot Radius
24 inch Branch Spread = 14 inch Radius
36 inch Branch Spread = 16 inch Radius

5. Use the tip of a sharp shovel to pierce the perimeter of your marked radial line to begin the dig. Continue to etch out this perimeter until you reach 9 inches deep for an 18 inch radius.

11 inches Deep = 2 Foot Radius
13 inch Deep = 3 Foot Radius
14 inch Deep = 4 Foot Radius

6. At a 45 degree angle, dig down below the root ball. Pull back on the shovel handle to help pry roots from the soil. It is safe to cut tough, vertical roots that won’t break free. Use your shovel edge or tree pruning shears.

7. At this point, you will need assistance lifting the tree from the ground. Do this by holding onto the base of the tree trunk, and then working your hands down under the root ball, using your legs to lift it out of the ground.

8. After the tree is out of the ground, wrap the root ball in wet burlap. This keeps the roots hydrated and prevents them from overheating. Use jute twine to secure the burlap while you transport your pine tree.

9. Fill the empty hole with leaves or soil.

It is highly important to call a licensed arborist for help with large-tree transplanting and removal. They retain the proper tools, training, and equipment to safely and efficiently remove trees. If you have never dug up a tree before, and it is a tree you wish to preserve, it is highly recommended to trust a professional to ensure accuracy and safety.

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How to Tie Up Trees

When you need to dig up, transplant, or remove a tree, it is important to first tie up the branches properly. Tying up the lower sections of branches prior to tree removal helps to avoid damages to tree limbs and gives you a better workspace and view during the digging process. Branches that are not tied, or tied properly, will get in your way while you try to dig, scratch up your arms, and potentially break off. Continue reading to a brief guide to tying up tree branches for digging.

Tree Twine

Tree tying involves tying up branches from the bottom sections of the tree, and working your way upwards. In order to do this, you will need string or rope that is strong enough to get this job done. Be sure to purchase a decent quality tree twine, or string. The larger the tree branches, the thicker the twine should be. Some people choose to use two different types of twine, which is perfectly acceptable and entirely based on personal preference. Be sure you have a pair of gloves in case you are working with an evergreen or pine.

Tree Transplanting

Keep in mind that tree transplants should be done in the early spring following the seasonal thaw, or in the late fall prior to the ground thawing. You want to transplant a tree before the buds bloom, or before it goes dormant for the winter and the ground refreezes. If you choose to do this in the fall, be sure the leaves on the tree have already dropped before digging it up.

Here’s What To Do:

1. Find a North-Facing Branch. Tie a piece of string around it so that you know which direction it should be facing when it comes time to replant it. Failing to do so can result in tree sunburns or sun scalding.

2. Tie a Piece of Twine Around the Trunk Where it Meets the Soil. This will remind you how far to place the tree into the ground when replanting it.

3. Find a Bottom Branch. Tie twine around it and leave the string reel open-ended so you can continue twisting it around the tree.

4. Twist and Pull Twine Upwards. As you pull the twine around the tree, gently fold the branches upwards against the trunk and in the same direction. Be careful not to break any limbs. However, it’s not detrimental to the tree if you do break a few.

5. Tie Twine in a Loop. Once you reach the top of the tree, tie the twine into a loop.

For professional tree transplanting assistance, contact a qualified tree service company in your neighborhood. They can offer prompt and proficient tree services at an affordable price.

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How Does Winter Weather Affect Landscaping Trees?

There are two different kinds of trees that we see in Indiana, deciduous trees and conifers. Conifers, or evergreens, are the pine and fir trees that keep their foliage all year long; while deciduous trees are those that lose their foliage in the winter seasons. Continue reading to learn more about conifers and deciduous trees, and how the winter weather can affect them both.

Conifers

Conifers are also called softwoods or evergreen trees. The popular species of these trees in Indiana are the Northern White Cedar and Junipers. The term conifer refers to the type of “fruit” that the tree grows. These are usually the pine cones or woody cones we see at certain times of the year; although some conifers, like Junipers, bore tiny berry-like fruits that are not meant to be consumed by humans or pets. Softwoods have needle-like foliage, often green in color, but can range from yellows to oranges, and even shades of blue. The differences among species of conifers is their branch and bud distribution, needle color, yielded fruits, tree size, and more. In the winter, these species of tree do not shed their foliage, nor does their foliage change in color. They remain “ever-green” all year long! So in conclusion, conifers are not significantly affected by winter weather, but they do prepare for winter seasons by storing up extra water and nutrients in the soil surrounding their root systems.

Deciduous Trees

The term “deciduous” literally means to “fall off at maturity” or “tending to fall off”, which refers to their foliage loss in winter climates. Every autumn, deciduous trees change leaf color, and then lose their leaves, leaving their branches exposed and bare. This process is called abscission. Although the foliage may be gone for now, they tree is not dead, but simply dormant. It will await the start of spring to bloom more buds and regrow its leaves. There are several species of deciduous trees, ranging in size, color, shape, smell, fruits, and more. Examples of such trees include Maple trees, Ash trees, willow trees, apple trees, oak trees, and cherry blossoms. Trees are not the only deciduous plant in nature. Shrubs, herbaceous perennials, and some plants also experience abscission.

Be sure to protect your landscaping trees this winter by laying down an extra layer of mulch or soil before the freeze-thaw cycles begin and before the first big snowfall. Also, water your trees as much as possible leading up to deep winter. This way, they have plenty of excess water and nutrients to keep them healthy while dormant. You may also want to apply soil additives for additional nutritional value. This is helpful and recommended for newly planted trees or young trees. Contact a professional tree service company for industry advice and information you can trust.

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Caring for a Newly Transplanted Tree

Sometimes a tree needs to be moved and replanted. Whether relocating, buying a new house, renovating backyard, adding patio additions or space additions to the home, or remodeling the property’s landscape, tree transplanting is a frequent necessity among home owners. For whatever reason it is that you need to move and replant a tree, be sure you are familiar with all the proper practices and guidelines for doing so; otherwise, you can quickly kill a tree if any phase of a transplant goes wrong. Knowing how to properly transplant a tree is the answer to caring for a newly transplanted tree. Continue reading to learn these recommended practices so you can feel confident when it comes time to transplant a tree.

Tree Transplanting

Before getting started, it is important to gather all needed tools and supplies for the job. This includes comfortable but strong gardening gloves, a large shovel, plastic rope, soil, water, a planter, and an empty bucket. Be sure your shovel is sharp enough to penetrate the ground, and that your soil is the proper type for your tree. Some trees need a sand-like soil, while others require a more organic soil.

Once you have all your needed supplies, get started by keeping the tree amply watered a few days before you intend to dig it up. Watering the tree ahead of time, before the transplant, will assure the tree roots are saturated with plenty of water for when it is out of the ground.

On the day of the actual transplant, start by gently securing the limbs and branches of the tree with the plastic rope. Pull the branches toward the tree trunk, and then tie the rope around them to prevent them from getting damaged during the move.

Next, dig a trench around the base of the tree. This trench doesn’t need to be more than 25 inches. It just needs to be deep enough to reach the tree’s root ball. After you dig this trench, cut beneath the tree to remove the root ball, careful to not damage any roots.

Smaller trees can be temporarily placed in a bucket of fresh water, while you fill up the planter with soil. If the tree is larger, prepare the planter ahead of time since the root ball won’t fit into a bucket of water. Once the planter is a quarter of the way filled with the proper soil-type, add the tree carefully, then fill the rest of the planter will the remaining soil. Pack the soil down with your hands to ensure all roots are surrounded.

Keep the planter in a safe and secure area, and water the tree regularly until it is time to replant it into the ground outside. If you are not up to transplanting a tree yourself, you are not alone! Simply contact a local tree removal company for professional and affordable tree transplanting services.

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Are Your Pine Trees Losing Needles?

This time of year, deciduous trees are starting to lose their leaves, as they should. But evergreens, like Pine Trees, retain their foliage year-round. So it is understandable that many property owners worry about their pine trees dying when they lose their needles. If your pine trees have being losing more needles than usual this time of year, don’t make any impulsive decisions like cutting them down! There is a good reason why pine trees lose their needles. Continue reading to learn more about pine trees, tree care, and more.

Falling Pine Needles

Pine trees and other conifers, although called evergreens, are not always green all year. Their pine needles will eventually turn color and shed; and then new needles grow in their place the following spring and summer. This cycle happens every two to four years. As a tree grows older each year, you can see the newer needles at the tips of its branches, while the older ones are closest to the crown. So if your pine tree is losing its needles this fall, don’t sweat it! It’s just going through its two to four-year cycle of making room for newer needles.

The reason why a pine tree sheds their needles every few years is because older needles cannot produce sufficient nutrients and food to the tree. Also, new needles overshadow and shade older needles, causing them to change color and drop. This process is safe and natural, and does not harm or hurt the tree in any way.

Although needle-loss is a normal sign of aging for pine trees, there are times to be concerned. If the needles are dropping from the ends of the branch, this means new needles are dying. This is not a good sign. The common causes for this are insects and disease. Contact a professional Fishers Tree Service for accurate diagnostics and assistance.

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